Why not shoot/scan/edit in sRGB if that's where everything's headed? Which color space do y'all use? I've always been told to shoot/scan in Adobe RGB and save down to sRGB for web and printing. I've got my printer dialed in pretty good but I'm just trying to figure out if I should working Adobe RGB or sRGB. If the images I scan are going to look worse than what I'm getting with my digital cameras, I might as well shoot with those and save the headache.Īs far as calibrating from monitor to scanner to printer.that's another project. I just want to be able to get some nice scans here at my desk that will remind me of why I still take the time to shoot film. I'm with you, if it's got to be a nice scan, I'll send it out to a drum scanner. It is close enough for my work, since I only use my scans for web publishing.Īm I crazy to think I could get results from an RGB gray card? Seems if I take a shot of that thing on various stocks I use commonly, bring up a preview in VueScan and tweak the image 'til I'm getting roughly 128 across all three channels, that should do the trick to the extent I'm looking for. I usually just aim to get the black between the frames dead black on whatever film I am scanning. Too much work for me, it is still easier to take things to the darkroom. As I said previously, if you are digitally printing, than you have to calibrate everything from scanner to monitor to printer. You will need to calibrate your monitor to really be sure you are on the money. The easiest way to get your base film correct is shoot a Macbeth chart, IT8 chart or anything with a few colors, and then make it match. MARTYr Photography edited this topic ages ago.Īctually, you are right. Now that I understand I'm trying to neutralize the base color of the film stock, my noodlings have more of a purpose. I'm already starting to see some consistent results while working off one of the default film stocks. There's gotta be a way to do this on the cheap with an RGB gray card and get myself pretty darn close. I prefer wet-prints to inkjet, so anything that I really want to have a nice print of goes to the darkroom.įrom what I've been reading, getting an IT8 target to shoot on different film stocks allows you to create profiles for the film defaults that are missing from the software.
#IT8 TARGET CHART PROFESSIONAL#
Any scans needed for printing are sent out to a professional scanner, who scans and press proofs the scans for a price I cannot afford to take the time to do it myself.īut if you developing a work flow from film to print via a scanner, then you need to calibrate by some method. I do not, as I do not print from my scans. Looks like I need to get an IT8 chart to shoot with various stocks and then scan the photos that are then compared to a JPG that's loaded into VueScan to act as a reference file. I've been reading up on this process and it seems like a necessity.